4 1/2 " Swineback Fletch
When the bow is full drawn and the string is loosed, there is a tremendous force exerted against the little slot in the arrow called the nock. To prevent this force from splitting the arrow, which in a strong bow it will do, various methods have been employed to strengthen this area. First, with any good arrow, the nock will be cut across the grain. If the shaft be made of a hardwood, like Birch or Ash, this will be sufficient for all but the most powerful bows, and many archers in the early 20th century, like Saxon Pope and his group used these unreinforced self nocks exclusively. With their 3/8" Birch shafting, it was unnecessary. However, there are many advantages in using lighter wood for arrow shafts: less weight, quicker recovery from the flexing at release, and faster flight. Many light woods do not have the necessary requirements, and long experience backed up by exhaustive experimentation have narrowed the field to only a few conifer woods: viz: Sitka Spruce, Douglas Fir, Port Orford Cedar and Norway Pine. But using a softer wood demands the use of further reinforcement to the nock. One of the oldest, simplest and best reinforcements is an insert of some strong material running across the nock. I use hardwood for my inserts; other materials used in the past included horn, rawhide, and bone. You may ask, 'Why go through all this bother when you can taper the end and glue on a plastic nock?'. Aside from the aesthetic matter, there is a good practical reason. When the nock is cut directly into the arrowshaft, it automatically is perfectly aligned. This avoids the very troublesome problem of misalignment with glue-on nocks, which is a common cause of inaccurate arrow flight.
I use a three feather fletch, set at a very slight angle on the shaft. I use two very old shapes of fletching, the Swineback and the Triangle, but I will consider other traditional shapes if you prefer. The Swineback cut has the advantage of being quiet in flight, and so is favored by those who hunt. The Triangle cut was often seen on the battlefields of yore. The fluttering noise they make when shot would, when multiplied by a flight of a thousand shafts, no doubt conjure ill in the minds of their intended targets! These two cuts, or slight variations on them, are universally used all over the world, and for good reason. The feather guides the arrow in flight by creating drag at the rear of the shaft. For greatest efficiency, the feathers should be as far back on the shaft as possible. And, when an arrow is loosed, the feathers are flattened against the shaft to some extent, so by having the greatest height of feather rearward, the feather is supported and this effect is lessened. By trimming the fletching to a shape that has the greatest height in the middle (as with the modern "banana cut"), the purpose is defeated by effectively placing the fletching closer to the middle of the shaft. Traditional shapes are impossible to improve upon.
I fletch my arrows using hide glue and silk wrapping. This method is Ancient indeed and used by numerous cultures worldwide. These materials are so much more pleasant to use than, say, solvent glues or plastic threads, and they look better and last longer too.
The barred Wild Turkey feathers are so beautiful in their natural color that I prefer not to dye them. The commercial white turkey feathers which I use on the Utility Arrows are available in white, gray, black, red, yellow, blue and green; choose any combination you wish! Using a different color for the Cock feather has a long history. Gray, white and black are often chosen by historical reenactors, and for 'war' arrows this is appropriate. Native Americans were using dyed feathers long before Europeans first arrived, and the practice is mentioned by Roger Ascham in his Toxophilus of 1545. Since people change little in their love of colorful ornamentation, and since feathers dye much like wool, the use of dyed fletching is no doubt exceedingly old.
Shafts are finished with traditional natural materials: Shellac and FlaxWax® my own brand of Linseed oil and Beeswax polish. All Arrows are supplied with regular field points. I do not put crests on my arrows. I would encourage archers to add their own personal decoration.
Woods available for hand-planed shafts are: for hardwoods, Birch, Hickory and Ash; and for softwoods, Cedar, Spruce, Fir and Pine. Each of these woods has its uses and advantages. If you need help in deciding, I will be happy to discuss your needs and help you choose.
Judos are the "unloseable" roving points. The little projecting wires catch on weeds and prevent them from snaking under the grass. HTM blunts are also great field points. The bladed blunt and claw are exclusively for use in hunting small game. Grizzly broadheads have a well deserved reputation and a very elegant proportion. The cutting edges are sharpened from one side only and they have a chisel type point. Brass bullet points are made mainly for use in soft targets. The shape permits you to sneak your arrows into a very close group and still not damage your other shafts. Last there is the longtime standard field point, originally designed to prevent excessive penetration into trees (not living trees!); they are cheap and effective.
Ace Archery Tackle LLC have been making the most beautiful broadheads since 1927. And with the exception of improvements in the welding process, they have not changed since then. Extremely strong and effective, and very well made, they possess a timeless look that enhances the arrow. With well balanced fletching there will be no windplaning. The Hex Blunt is a fine roving point. Though not quite as "unloseable" as a judo, the unique edges grab and usually prevent snaking. They also handle more easily, fit in the quiver more conveniently and are less likely to stick into trees. An important advantage is that Ace Hex Blunts are made in five weights, from 125gr to 200gr and three diameters. It is a very good idea to match the weight of any blunt or field point you use to the weight of the broadhead you prefer, and Ace's Broadheads, Classics and Blunts are all available in a large range of matching weights. The Classic field point is a new addition to Ace's line. Besides looking a bit more "period" than a regular field point, it also has some distinct advantages over them. Their contour makes them less likely to damage your target and the other arrows in the target. When I see arrowheads made with the attention to detail that all of Ace's are, I am impressed!
